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Thursday, 15 March 2012

Colour Made in Hair Heaven


Since I divorced my hair colourist last year and found a new partner in Brooke at FOUR London, I’ve never been happier. I feel and look like a new woman! I think my former colourist had fallen out of love with me. I just felt I was being taken for granted and wasn't being looked at with a fresh eye. It was the same colour plopped on time after time with no direction. It was time for a split. Shopping around for a new colourist is always a little scary. It’s a relationship built on trust – and to be honest I see my colourist more frequently than I see some of my friends - every six to eight weeks, so a connection is vital. As luck would have it, like any good relationship I was introduced to Brooke through a mutual friend, and hair love blossomed. I’ve found myself in creative hands too – Brooke also lightens and brightens Claudia Winkleman, Georgie Thompson and Nigella Lawson.



Like any directional colourist, the colour queens (Brooke is joined by co-directors Charlie, Maleeka and Denise above) at FOUR London are buzzing with new ideas and techniques to take your hair that one step prettier, glossier and trendier. I thought you may like to read their trend tips on how you should be wearing your colour this summer.

The on-trend technique: Silhouette Shading.  If you were snapped a few months ago by a pap chances are you had a dip dye. Katy Perry, Amber Le Bon and Fearne Cotton all let colour go to the ends of their hair. Alternatively there was the look Caroline Flack was working, dark roots and lighter ends.  But like any good trend, it moves on and hair is no longer two timing. Taking over from this hippy chick vibe, FOUR have developed a clever technique called Silhouette Shading. It addresses the growing need for dip dye rehab!  FOUR reveals clients were asking to get rid of the bleached ends of the dip dye, but wanting to keep the element of lightness within the hair. The solution? Remove the harsh regrowth and lighten the hairline and perimeter. This way natural tones can be applied to the root area, keeping it darker whilst edging the hair outlines with lighter, more flattering shades. Genius! This technique works brilliantly well on dark and blonde hair, and as an added bonus the client doesn’t experience the unforgiving tell-tale signs of re-growth. Colour also lasts longer in-between appointments. So, more colour for your buck! Keeping the hair lighter at the hairline is also very anti-ageing so this technique is suitable across all decades and can be pretty dramatic or very subtle. The newest recruit to their Silhouette Shading is Sky sports presenter Georgie Thompson whose hair had become far too blonde and wanted a gentle move back to the dark side! Silhouette Shading allowed them scope to do that whilst still keeping her look individual and far from boring.

When it comes to the main players in the colour palette here are their directions for Colours that pop ‘n’ rock:

Red but no warning sign: Think Christina Hendricks and Florence Welch, reds have never been so in demand and sexy. But this season they have less of a harsh warning light, and instead have been given a dressing-down! The word at FOUR is to dial down by one shade – overall, it makes this sensual shade more flattering and unforgiving. Oh-so-pretty strawberry blondes are back and the light tones of titian are being mixed with slices of true ginger to create a vibrant look. Take note, orange is on-message for fashion, but not for your hair shade! 

Brown but not too dark: Think brown equals mousey? You must be colour blind! Hollywood browns  - witness Jessica Alba, are created using a blend of a natural deep neutral tinted base, mingled with a smattering of low lights to enhance long, layered hair. As a hair encore, colour is finished with a light chestnut gold vegetable colour. This ensures that the cuticle reflects the light, up-swinging the shine factor. The wrong brown can look too purple, so think soft woods, not fruits! Dark oaks and rich chestnuts deliver an almost grain effect to the hair, but leave it far from wooden looking!

Blonde but not too bombshell: A bold blonde for cropped hair is still strong - Michelle Williams snapshots the look. But depth is created at the root to ensure texture to the colour. The use of bleach is side stepped, as the shine is always dimmed and the hair shaft is left looking exposed and raw. It’s uncompromising on the skin tone too. FOUR have mastered a very colour friendly technique  – they always double their high lift base tint to rid cheap looking, brassy tones.  This mimics the lift of bleach, but gives a much kinder finish. Hue can argue with that?
62 Conduit Street, London W1S 2GB
Tel: 020 7297 9600

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